A Chicago-born army vet and illustrator with modest beginnings ventures into the exclusive world of French haute couture and becomes the very first American couturier to achieve success in Paris. That’s the story told by “Making Mainbocher: The First American Couturier,” which opens tomorrow at the Chicago History Museum. The exhibit features 30 of his garments, plus fashion illustrations, photographs, and interactive displays.
How did he begin his career? Where did his learn his craft? Mainbocher’s career as a couturier began in Paris. He learned about what constitutes “good fashion” from his years working as a fashion artist for Harper’s Bazaar and fashion editor with French Vogue. When he left Vogue to open his house, he taught himself the art of draping and dressmaking.
Considering he created uniforms for the Navy WAVES during World War II, the Girl Scouts, and nursing students at Chicago’s Passavant Memorial, is it fair to say he was one of the first high-end designers to make his creations accessible to a wider segment of the population? No. But he was one of the first high-end designers to embark on a uniform design that experienced as much use and longevity than most others in the field.
“Making Mainbocher: The First American Couturier” 10/22-8/2017, Chicago History Museum, 1601 N. Clark, 312-642-4600, chicagohistory.org, $16.