There’s nothing so discouraging as a dumpling that falls apart. A dumpling is like a nicely wrapped gift, bearing not only its filling, but the pleasures of anticipation, suspense, and ultimate gratification. When a wrapper shreds at the touch of a chopstick, or sticks to the bottom of the steamer until it rips apart, a little piece of my soul dies.
Four curries are on offer, from an assertive vegetable jalfrezi to a mild pork vindaloo, and there’s an assortment of small plates and sides, including fries (thick, hand cut, and undercooked) smothered in curry sauce and a complex raita with black mustard seeds and tart green apple slices. But the most visually arresting and irresistible item on the menu is the chiya chile potatoes, a chunk of honey-glazed spuds crusty with crushed red chile flakes. It’s just the thing to pair with a cuppa black pepper-clove. v
2770 N. Milwaukee 773-360-7541chiyachai.com
