Brian Enyart spent the first 14 years of his career quietly climbing the ladder in Rick Bayless’s kitchens, rising to chef de cuisine at Topolobampo—easily the most rarefied and progressive restaurant in the Bayless empire—before stepping away in 2011. There were a few consulting gigs and a stint at a Saint Louis Mexican restaurant, but now he’s back, along with former Topolobampo pastry chef (and wife) Jennifer Jones, at Logan Square’s Dos Urban Cantina. Given the extraordinary number of restaurants in and around town that employ at least one of those three words, it’s a bland name, one that undersells what’s going on inside. Enyart and Jones are doing something similar to what Diana Dávila did during her regrettably short tenure at Andersonville’s Cantina 1910. They’re taking Mexican food to places it’s never been before.
Enyart’s boldest cross-cultural move is a plate of carnitas paired with Polish-style sauerkraut and mashed potatoes, set on a sour tomatillo broth—a tribute to the synergy of his eastern European upbringing and his long immersion in Mexican cuisine.
2829 W. Armitage 773-661-6452 dosurbancantina.com
