• Michael Gebert
  • Whitney Morrow, mixologist at Drumbar

“There’s lots of green on the menu,” says Whitney Morrow, a tall blonde who is dressed in the vaguely 19th century garb that’s become de rigueur for mixologists (a term which also dates back to the 19th century, though like the look, it spent a lot of time out of fashion before roaring back to prominence).

The first two drinks we tried demonstrated that more isn’t always more. Generally Mackin’, the first was called, made of “young brandy” (which is to say, a grape distilled spirit), yellow bell pepper (in what form I’m not sure), cayenne, lime, and fajita seasoning around the rim. I was fine with everything up to that last one, but there was a licking-the-ashtray sensation to having the direct taste of commercial fajita seasoning in your mouth. A second drink, My Little Lotus, whose name doesn’t exactly suggest that it would be Malort-based, aimed to make a balanced cocktail out of the famously bitter dare drink, but it was still overwhemed by the licking-rubber-cement flavor of the wormwood spirit. I could see some liking it, but it wasn’t for me—especially in summer.

  • Michael Gebert