Since opening five years ago, Finch’s Beer Co. has struggled to find its place in Chicago. Its original lineup failed to impress the local beer-drinking community, the majority of its distribution was outside of Illinois, and plans to build a facility on the river (and then out in the suburbs) fell through. But following a February sale of the brewery—from the Finch family to several of the original investors—the company acquired Hopothesis Brewing and Breakroom Brewery. Shedding an “s” along the way, Finch’s Beer has become Finch Beer, emphasis on the bird rather than the founding family.

The peppery Cave of Chauvet saison is simple but satisfying, and the Sungasm Belgian-style pale ale marries bright grapefruit with grassy hops. Inanimate Object, a Belgian-style dubbel brewed with rye, contrasts a creamy, chocolaty body with rye spice. Another favorite is Midgard, identified as a Gottslandrika, a style that I’m half convinced the brewery made up (if you google the name, the only results that come up are associated with Finch). Brewed with smoked malt and honey malt, it’s excellent—a bit like a smoky, spicy, complex amber ale.