Chicago media Twitter recently pounced on the irony of a simulacrum of a dive bar housed inside the kind of newfangled craft beer spot quickly replacing the very thing it’s paying homage to.

so it’s a pop-up in Logan Square of the kind of bars that have been almost entirely pushed out of Logan Square…

— katherine of chicago (@kofchicago) January 18, 2018

While there’s something mildly irksome about paying $9 for a glorified gin and tonic named Da Ghost of Studs Terkel, there are plenty of recently established joints in Logan Square and other gentrifying neighborhoods that fake a kind of lived-in authenticity with taxidermy and vintage Old Style signs on the walls, old-timey cash registers, and $15 cocktails whose names reference relics from Chicago’s past.

The Light Times Club Emporium Arcade Bar, 2363 N. Milwaukee, 773-360-8774, emporiumchicago.com/gallery/light-times-club. Through 2/10. Sun-Mon, Wed-Thu 6 PM-2 AM, Fri 5 PM-2 AM, Sat 3 PM-3 AM.