I’ve been whinging about the balkanization of Chicago’s Koreatown for years. Most of the good old mom-and-pop places have closed shop or moved out to burbs like Niles and Mount Prospect. And yet next-generation restaurants, while not centralized, are doing their own thing in the city, and doing it reasonably well. Taking into account the groundbreaking work of places like Parachute, Bill Kim’s mini empire, and Mott St, to say nothing of BopNGrill, Crisp, and other fast-casual options, it’s safe to say that hallyu, or “the Korean Wave,” has pretty thoroughly drenched us, culinarily speaking. 

My only hang-up with this recipe is that it calls for a whole cup of kimchi juice to make a buttery sauce. I keep more kimchi on hand at any given time than most people, and it was a real challenge to summon that amount. But you know what’s a good substitute? The new Kimski All Purpose Hot Sauce collaboration between Coop Hot Sauce and Maria’s Packaged Goods & Community Bar. Other recipe notes: I made this with brown instead of white sticky rice, and that worked out just fine. One other improvement I’d make in the future: a layer of good melting cheese.

  At his Chicago restaurant Mott St, chef Edward Kim does this amazing thing where he effortlessly bridges the cuisines of Italy and Korea. A kimchi and slow­-roasted pork shoulder dish is one of the restaurant’s signatures. Preparing this takes some work and planning, with two 12-­hour or overnight steps. But it’s mostly unattended, and as a weekend project, the set piece for a large Sunday supper or dinner party, we think you will love the results. In layering well­-seasoned pork shoulder, kimchi and rice, each bite gives you a unique mix of flavors and textures: tender meat, crisped, chewy rice, richness and a sour kick from the kimchi­ butter sauce. Kim sells out of the dish every night before the last reservations have even left their house.

  4. In a rice cooker, or on the stove, cook the rice. Measure out five cups of the cooked rice (reserve the rest, if any, for another use). Transfer the rice to a large bowl and gently fold it to release steam. Season it with the rice vinegar, and then salt to taste. Spread out on a baking sheet and set aside to cool.

  9. Serve the lasagna with the kimchi-­butter sauce drizzled around the plate.