Chocolate-covered foie gras tops the menu at the latest from the Fifty/50 Group, Steadfast, a restaurant with a broad mission that in some ways feels like a peak in the trajectory of this concern, which launched with its namesake Wicker Park bro bar and an obscure regional pizzeria but then branched into classy cocktail bars and downtown hotel partnerships that earned the burgeoning empire high regard. Until now the crown jewel has been Homestead on the Roof, the farm-to-table fine-dining outfit atop the Chicago Avenue doughplex that houses the original Roots Handmade Pizza (there’s a second in Lincoln Square) and West Town Bakery. There chef Chris Davies and pastry chef Chris Teixeira labored in relative obscurity—relative, that is, to other, more visible darlings associated in various ways with the Green City Market.
There’s a lot to puzzle over on Steadfast’s dinner menu. Dishes so irresistible you want to order them again are side by side with some so unappealing they’re difficult to look at.
Steadfast still feels like it’s getting its footing while attempting to appease both a broad hotel clientele and the local dining fans who justifiably expect something more on point from this cast of characters. v
120 W. Monroe 312-801-8899steadfastchicago.com
